Kayaking Crabtown

I took up kayaking about ten years and twenty pounds ago. Originally it was an inexpensive way to enjoy the water. Later I came to appreciate the exercise and upper body strength it offered. But the underlying appeal was the quick escape into solitude it provided. For at least a year I carried a kayak around in my van, ready to row off at a moment's notice. In Annapolis, that's all it takes.
Although Annapolis fancies itself as "America's Sailing Capital" the layout of the town lends itself perfectly to a less complex form of watercraft. Situated between two rivers, among four creeks and countless coves, Annapolis has many small, street-end landings where anyone can launch a canoe or kayak. As a result, you frequently see people paddling quietly amongst those million dollar yachts in Ego Alley or tied up at the dingy dock near the Market House.

Among my favorite kayaking experiences one summer was attending the dockside Navy Band concerts, floating behind the brass section with some music loving mallards. I also enjoyed paddling in Lake Ogleton with a family of swans, and watching the ospreys fish from their channel marker homes. (I learned not to get too close. They can part your hair with those talons.)

So although it's been a while since I kayaked, the invitation from Arlene was a welcome opportunity to enjoy the Annapolis harbor on this Labor Day weekend. We launched at Horn Point and made our way around the choppy waters of Sycamore Point to Spa Creek, dodging the Race Week fleet as they returned.

Arlene and I last braved Spa Creek together on the legendary Rose and Thistle, the City of Annapolis' entry in the annual Build a Boat contest many years ago. Since we both worked at City Hall and no one stepped up to defend municipal honor, Arlene and I answered the call.

The Rose and Thistle was our craft, built from plywood and bailing wire, held together with epoxy and a few prayers. It didn't look too sturdy, but since it was designed by Ric Dahlgren, the City Harbormaster, we were reasonably sure it was seaworthy. Besides, all we had to do was row a few hundred yards and finish ahead of our traditional rival, Anne Arundel County. Sounded simple enough. I took the bow. Arlene, who could row like a galley slave, powered the stern.

I'll spare the details of how the boat leaked and listed as soon as we cast off. And how the county recruited some firefighters to muscle their craft. (Since Arlene now works for the county, I won't repeat the epithets we hurled when that buff crew of ringers climbed aboard the Lady Anne.)

Thankfully, the Rose and Thistle didn't sink. (Arlene can bail and row at the same time. What a gal!) We finished the race, and achieved our primary objective. The City prevailed over the County, at least that year.

(I think the Lady Anne is still on the bottom of Spa Creek. Fortunately, the burly firefighters were also good swimmers.)

Remembering the voyage of the Rose and Thistle gave us something to laugh about as we paddled under the Spa Creek bridge. At least we didn't have a couple hundred people whooping at us this time.

The different perspective of Annapolis is amazing. The steeples of St. Mary's and St. Anne's along with the domes of the State House and the Academy chapel still provide a memorable skyline when seen from the many waterside approaches to the city, but the perception is entirely different. There is a sense of serenity you don't feel when surrounded by engines. At sunset, the view from the harbor is breathtaking in every direction.

Another nice thing about kayaking in Annapolis is that anyone can do it. My first experience was at Quiet Waters Park, The boat rental is on Harness Creek, a secluded tributary of South River. At Quiet Waters, it's more likely you'll see blue herons and deer instead of mallards or seagulls like City Dock. The kayaks are the type that sit on top of the water, providing stability and ease in maneuvering. It was a fun, inexpensive adventure I enjoyed with the kids when they were younger. We felt like Amazon explorers, poking into the lagoons and listening to wildlife.

If you want to explore downtown Annapolis and the maritime district, you can rent watercraft at Annapolis Canoe and Kayak Rentals. Arlene and I saw quite a few sightseers on their vessels as we explored the upper part of the creek. (Spa Creek can also be accessed from Truxtun Park, where there is a public boat launch.)

There is still wonderful weather left in this season. Fall kayaking is better than any other time, and there are so many places in Maryland where it is offered. I still plan to try Charles County with Donna Dudley. And someday I want to row as well as Arlene.